Drilling Jig 3.0

6 Jun

In order to consistently pre-drill the holes for the deck screws without repeatedly measuring I decided a jig would be the best way to have repeatability over the course of drilling 3000 or so holes. Also required was a way to locate the holes relative to the previous board’s screws so they line up with each other.
The first Jig relied on the outside diameter of the smart bit to locate the hole.
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This was not quite as precise as it seemed it would be and was heavily reliant on the drill being dead square with the work surface. The nice thing about Jig 1.0 is that if it worked well it would have removed a step from the process, because you could simply pre-drill and countersink in one step, right though the jig. If you use a jig that is only has holes as big as the #7 drill bit then you have to mark the holes with the bit, remove the jig, and then fully drill and countersink the holes.
Unfortunately, though, it wasn’t accurate enough so Jig 2.0 was developed.

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Jig 2.0 works in the second manner described but it has been good to us. The jig has a slit running down the middle in line with the holes that reaches to the next board so you can line it up with the previous board’s screws.
The jig has been working fine but it’s been showing some wear and tear from so many holes being drilled, so it was time for version 3.0 with a few revisions based on our experience.
Introducing the new and improved drilling jig version 3.0!

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The design is essentially the same but the overall size is reduced to limit interference from the gap spacers and the tiger jaw (we’ll save that for another post). I added a custom made handle, made on the table saw, to make it easier to handle. I also added a bevel on the close side too and a saw kerf so we can also line up the holes to a chalk line on the joists.

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Here you can see the size reduction from Jig 2.0 to Jig 3.0

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